Kashmiri food is meat-forward and slow-cooked, with a few vegetarian staples.
Wazwan. The traditional feast, prepared by master cooks called wazas. Guests sit in groups of four around a large copper platter, and courses are served in turn. A full wedding wazwan can run past a dozen dishes. Restaurants serve a shorter version, often with kebabs, rogan josh and yakhni.
Breads for breakfast. Srinagar bakeries open early. Try tsot (a small round bread with poppy and sesame seeds), girda, lavasa, sheermal, baqerkhani and kulcha.
Tea. Kahwa is a saffron green tea, and noon chai is the salted pink tea, often had with bread.
Harissa. A slow-cooked mutton and rice dish eaten early on cold mornings, usually in the cooler months.
For vegetarians. Dum aloo, nadru (lotus stem) dishes and haak (greens) are common. Smaller places may have limited choices, so ask the stay or restaurant first.
Tip. Take dry fruits, saffron and tea home from established shops, and check the labels.
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